View Full Version : Latex clay molds
Mermaid Cascada
07-26-2012, 01:50 PM
Sooo... I am on a bit of a setback trying to find a place or website that sells Sulfur free clay and/or ultra-cal 30 that doesn't charge 146 dollars for shipping! But anyways.. I had this idea ---> ( Keep in mind that this is just an idea :p )
So instead of using clay to make a mold negative and using ultra-cal to cast it, I was wondering if I could use clay to make the mold altogether? ( lay even clay out and press foam circle scales into it which would create the mold and do the same for the fluke by denting your fluke shape and details into the clay by using sculpting tools.) After you let it dry you can spray some sort of hardener so when the latex is poured in in doesn't fuse with the clay. Does that even make sense? Will it even work? What do you guys think?
Ayla of Duluth
07-26-2012, 02:30 PM
...0000000000000000000000000
^
That's what my dog thinks of it as he walks across the keyboard. He also turned on the caps lock.
It sounds like it would work, its certainly an interesting idea. I guess there are a few ways you could make a mold for a tail. :)
i've been trying exactly that only for the fluke so far. first i tried a low quality clay. it cracked as soon as it started to dry. i thought i made it too thin. so i soaked the clay down and tried making it thicker. still cracked only worse. so finally i decided to try this really high quality clay i have. same problems. and this is a clay that is a cone three porceilain i use on my pottery wheel. so i did reading on mermaid star's first tail making experience. she seemed to have the same issues. so i tried to solve the problem as she did by keeping the clay moist and letting it dry super slowly. i woke up this morning and it seemed that my cats thought it would be fun to totally uncover my work of fluke art over night and it had started drying and huge cracks were forming again. now i had already been working the drying process for four days at this point. so after having to rewet and resculpt over and over again to the point where i have a hand that has a stress fracture from spending over 30 hours of sculpting on the second clay type alone. so when i saw it cracked yet again i decided my new plan is to let it dry totally. its cracked as hell right now. but still looking ok enough to try to save. by tomorrow morning it should be 100% dry. so i am debating weather or not to put it in the kiln then resurrect it or skip the kiln. i fear using the kiln may make the mold totally unusable. so what i am most likely going to do is glue the mold to a sheet of plywood (well all the pieces as best i can) then use a type of grout or caulk to fill the cracks that won't cling to silicone or latex i pour into it, then hit it with a high gloss enamel spray paint. then use mold release every time i use it so that it holds together put doesn't get ripped apart. i don't see any other options. if anyone has any ideas for me i would love to hear them!
Mermaid Star
07-27-2012, 02:31 AM
As Jinx has found, Clay cracks when it dries since it shrinks. I kept the clay wet until I was able to mold it, then I re-bagged the clay. It would be extremely difficult to get the detail that you need by using just clay. Also it isn't very strong. And could easily chip and break. Another problem with clay is that it likes to reconstitute if it is gets wet. So pouring a casting matterial into a mold made from clay could be problematic and could cause loss of detail. I would suggest and advise against it. But if you would like to give it a whirl, let us know how it comes out. I have never done a mold made of clay so all of my inferences are theory
Mermaid Star
07-27-2012, 02:43 AM
Also, if Ultracal is too expensive you can use a mold making resin. If you can not find it or if this is too expensive, you can get fiberglass resin (which is what Mertailor uses). I don't recommend the use of fiberglass for obvious reasons but in a pinch, it will work.
thanks for the input star. i'll let u know how it turns out.
Mermaid Star
07-27-2012, 02:54 AM
I will be waiting to see how it goes! I love learning on here!
ShyMer
07-27-2012, 07:40 AM
Have you tried calling around to see if places near you have ultracal? I heard of people finding it at lumber yards and other strange places.
Mermaid Cascada
07-27-2012, 09:56 AM
...0000000000000000000000000
^
That's what my dog thinks of it as he walks across the keyboard. He also turned on the caps lock.
It sounds like it would work, its certainly an interesting idea. I guess there are a few ways you could make a mold for a tail. :)
Awww! As you know I am a dog lover :p In fact I started crying (more like sobbing) when one of those animal cruelty commercials came on! Lol! I am such a baby
Mermaid Cascada
07-27-2012, 09:59 AM
i've been trying exactly that only for the fluke so far. first i tried a low quality clay. it cracked as soon as it started to dry. i thought i made it too thin. so i soaked the clay down and tried making it thicker. still cracked only worse. so finally i decided to try this really high quality clay i have. same problems. and this is a clay that is a cone three porceilain i use on my pottery wheel. so i did reading on mermaid star's first tail making experience. she seemed to have the same issues. so i tried to solve the problem as she did by keeping the clay moist and letting it dry super slowly. i woke up this morning and it seemed that my cats thought it would be fun to totally uncover my work of fluke art over night and it had started drying and huge cracks were forming again. now i had already been working the drying process for four days at this point. so after having to rewet and resculpt over and over again to the point where i have a hand that has a stress fracture from spending over 30 hours of sculpting on the second clay type alone. so when i saw it cracked yet again i decided my new plan is to let it dry totally. its cracked as hell right now. but still looking ok enough to try to save. by tomorrow morning it should be 100% dry. so i am debating weather or not to put it in the kiln then resurrect it or skip the kiln. i fear using the kiln may make the mold totally unusable. so what i am most likely going to do is glue the mold to a sheet of plywood (well all the pieces as best i can) then use a type of grout or caulk to fill the cracks that won't cling to silicone or latex i pour into it, then hit it with a high gloss enamel spray paint. then use mold release every time i use it so that it holds together put doesn't get ripped apart. i don't see any other options. if anyone has any ideas for me i would love to hear them!
Hmmm... maybe you should buy a spray bottle and almost drench your clay every five to ten minutes. What kind of clay are you using?
Hmmm... maybe you should buy a spray bottle and almost drench your clay every five to ten minutes. What kind of clay are you using?
i am using amaco clay. its what i use to make pottery on my wheel. i did solve the problem thouh!
here is what i did.
i used liquid nails to glue the mold to plywood and make it as close to perfect as i could.
then i made a thick slip ad pressed hard into the cracks rubbing it into each hairline crack. i filled the deep cracks with clay and then used slip on them. then here is the genious part. since the clay i am using is a low fire clay that is cone 3 or below as i filled i fired using a high powered heat gun. not the ones from the craft store i used the one i used in my days of being a house painter. the high powered guns heat up hot enough to take150years of oil based paint off of trim in a minute or less. so i worked 2 cracks at a time. i put the heat gun on one i had filled while i used my other hand( the less injured one) too press slip and clay into the other. the heat gun would start the firing process and when i got to the point when it reached stoneware state i switched and started the gun on the other spot and started filling the cracks on the fired spot some more. it is a long process going back and forth for hours over every crack i think i spent 10 hours but i got it done. i heated the entire thig so it is bisque fired i am going to use an enamel on it then it should be good to go.
lasserine
07-28-2012, 02:24 PM
I was able to find Ultracal 30 in town. Try looking around at different home improvement stores, that sell sheet rock.
It did come in a 100lb bag though.
i didn't want to spend more money when i already had 50 lbs. of clay laying around. i hasworked pretty good. i painted it with the first coat today. its gold i'm calling it the goldie fluke moldie. lol
Mermaid Cascada
07-29-2012, 03:15 PM
i am using amaco clay. its what i use to make pottery on my wheel. i did solve the problem thouh!
here is what i did.
i used liquid nails to glue the mold to plywood and make it as close to perfect as i could.
then i made a thick slip ad pressed hard into the cracks rubbing it into each hairline crack. i filled the deep cracks with clay and then used slip on them. then here is the genious part. since the clay i am using is a low fire clay that is cone 3 or below as i filled i fired using a high powered heat gun. not the ones from the craft store i used the one i used in my days of being a house painter. the high powered guns heat up hot enough to take150years of oil based paint off of trim in a minute or less. so i worked 2 cracks at a time. i put the heat gun on one i had filled while i used my other hand( the less injured one) too press slip and clay into the other. the heat gun would start the firing process and when i got to the point when it reached stoneware state i switched and started the gun on the other spot and started filling the cracks on the fired spot some more. it is a long process going back and forth for hours over every crack i think i spent 10 hours but i got it done. i heated the entire thig so it is bisque fired i am going to use an enamel on it then it should be good to go.
I'm glad you fixed it :D I ordered the clay and I'm gonna work on it once I get it
QUOTE=kimmie;33025]I'm glad you fixed it :D I ordered the clay and I'm gonna work on it once I get it[/QUOTE]
make sure yoy have plenty of time and patience. I ended up spending a number of hours on it again the other night. I think after resculpting it and everything I've spent at least 80 hours on that mold after all. I have the Alex plus in it right now I am keeping my fins crossed that it will pull out ok when its ready.
Mermaid Cascada
08-01-2012, 06:48 PM
Good luck! :D
thanks i am sitting here heat curing my silicone right now. i dont want it to take so long to dry cause i can't continue anything else till this part is done. i will post pics soon.
update. it didn't pull out well. the paint and top layer of clay pulled out with the silicone. i dont know if maybe i should have let the paint set for a few days or what. its a fail probably cause of my impatience. i'll get it right sooner or later. i'll let you knnow how it goes when i attempt it again. which probably won't be until i return from Niagra Falls later this month. i am going back to plan A with my fluke now but altered the plan. different glue and reversed the order i am laying the materials on. i think it might be the best idea yet. just taking my original plan and flip flopping it.
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03-11-2025, 12:14 AM
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