Problems with fabric shrinkage- sewing

[ShyMer]

I'm puzzled. I know we have some experienced sewers here, so I hope someone will need able to help me understand what I did wrong.

I like to sew, but I'm not terribly good at it. I make my own patterns and tend to eyeball things. Mostly I make small things that don't need to be terribly precise, like stuff for my rats. It's when I decide to make something big that I find out how much more I have to learn.

I love a long, flowy skirt. I've had trouble finding a long, loose skirt like I'd prefer that wasn't one of those tiered gauze ones, so I figured why not make one instead?

I researched styles and materials, and decided that I wanted a circle skirt made from a rayon/ spandex knit. It shouldn't be too hard to do. I figured I needed just under five yards of material. When I bought the fabric at joanne' s (half off, yay!) they only had four yards and eight inches. I took it, because it still should have been enough.
I was even good and washed it before cutting anything.

What I didn't do was measure again after washing to check for shrinkage.
I swear I bought enough fabric for my project(according to my receipt), but somehow ended up being 40 some inches too short. I discovered this after I had cut out half of my fabric. I'm sure it wasn't stretched or otherwise distorted when I placed my pattern and started cutting. I don't understand how this happened. Surely my fabric didn't shrink that much, because the width was fine. Besides, 40 inches??

Am I crazy? Did the lady who cut my fabric somehow give me less than I asked for? Do I have fabric gremlins living in my washing machine? What did I do wrong?

Mostly I'm concerned because I could go and buy more fabric ( it is on sale after all) but I'm afraid it'll go wonky on me. Can anyone help me figure out what's going on?

[Mermaid Kalliope]

I don't know exactly what happened there... That is some major shrinkage. O.o... I know that I recently bought some linen from Jo-Ann's and when I unfolded it at home to cut it into three large strips (I was making a chiton/toga) I noticed that they cut it at a MAJOR diagonal. So, I don't really trust their cutting any more. :-/ I hope that you can fix it some how, but 40 inches?! That's just... Go talk to them that's not right.

[Azurin Luna]

Wow, that's alot. I've used a various array of fabrics but never had the problem of it shrinking that much. I would go back with it

[Ponytales]

I always buy more than I think I'll need, just in case. But your fabric really really shouldn't shrink over a yard shorter. Measure the width, you should be able to tell how much shrink happened.

Joann's definitely is having personnel issues lately. I think its just, there's only so many people who sew now, so they're hiring less experienced people who don't understand as much about fabric or how to cut it straight. My mother had a worker argue with her before over paneled fabric (I don't know if anyone else remembers that odd period in the 90s when panels of pre-printed patterns for stuffed toys or home decor was everywhere) The woman started cutting right through the middle of the printed pattern because she didn't read the label OR notice all the cutting lines and claimed it was sold by the yard, and then tried to charge my mom for the ruined panel that she had to cut off to do it properly.

[Mermaid Fenicia]

Here, in Belgium, they have to give 5cm (about 2") extra in case they don't cut strait. It's even a law here.

[ShyMer]

I went back today to show them my material. We figured out that I had washed it by machine instead of by hand, so that may have accounted for most of the length difference. The width had also shrunk more than I thought, though not quite 20 percent. I still think it's odd how my fabric shrunk a whole 20 percent... lesson learned though. Always check the measurements yourself before and after washing, and take the washing directions seriously. I'm also going to watch the attendant more carefully so I know it's cut correctly.
He did give me an additional discount on top of the sale price on the extra fabric I needed to get, so that was nice. I still will be more careful when buying fabric from them in the future though.

Thanks for your thoughts, everyone <3

[MerMarla]

Hi ya ShyMer!

My rule of thumb is: "know your fabrics"! (which really doesn't help newbie seamstresses :( ) And I guess, read the washing instructions. Rayon will shrink, even if its combined with another fabric like spandex. Rayon needs gentle cold or tepid (slightly warm) water. Gently done. Usually by hand, press out excess water in a towel, no wringing. That said, combined with spandex it should have been more forgiving. If you washed it in very warm water it will shrink! Rayon will shrink but shouldn't have been 25%! JoAnn Fabrics also doesn't carry what I consider 1st quality fabric. I have had so much trouble with them in the past, I have to be very careful what I buy and how much. JoAnn's is basically the only game in town, other wise I have over 1 hour each way to drive to another fabric store. Their corporation bought out all the competition, and the rest of us who tailor or sew, are at their mercy. I am happy you could find more fabric and that they gave you a break!

Even knowing what each individual fabric will do once washed, almost doesn't matter with Joann's fabrics. They buy lots of ok-quality fabrics, but may be printed on sub-standard blanks (fabric with no dye or print). It's a vicious circle. When clothing manufacturing went over seas, and cheap clothes returned (aka Walmart, Kmart...) people stopped sewing because you could buy it cheaper than you could make it. So schools eventually stopped offering sewing classes, and with less demand for good fabric, the industry spiraled down to what we now have as poor quality fabrics. If you want good fabric, you wouldn't want to pay the price for it. You can still find high quality fabrics, from Europe, and some still made here in the US, but not many. Wool, for example is the toughest to find, for suiting or even decent blankets.

I know I'm on a rant, but your experience is so typical of what I have been dealing with for 50 years of sewing. Welcome to the club. Don't let it turn you away from sewing... just be aware that you really have to pay attention to the care on the bolt. Write it down! Because when I buy more than one kind of fabric, I easily forget the care instructions.... and they don't print them out for you!

(((HUGz))) and Bubble https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/e/B0C'z
Mermaid Marla

[ShyMer]

Thank you for sharing your experience, Marla. I tried looking for resources online for advice on materials, but for whatever reason I have trouble finding it. I have to figure these things out as I go, which can be frustrating sometimes. I still enjoy sewing, though, and I'd love to practice and get better.

It's sad what Wal-Mart and the others have done to clothing.
I also feel uneasy about only being able to buy fabric from joannes or online...

Would you mind if I asked you for advice every once in a while? If you can think of any good resources online off the top of your head I'd love to check them out. Thank you<3

[MerMarla]

Thank you for sharing your experience, Marla. I tried looking for resources online for advice on materials, but for whatever reason I have trouble finding it. I have to figure these things out as I go, which can be frustrating sometimes. I still enjoy sewing, though, and I'd love to practice and get better.

It's sad what Wal-Mart and the others have done to clothing.
I also feel uneasy about only being able to buy fabric from joannes or online...

Would you mind if I asked you for advice every once in a while? If you can think of any good resources online off the top of your head I'd love to check them out. Thank you<3

Any time ShyMer, and that goes for anyone else, too... I'm not schooled as a clothing designer or seamstress, but have sewed since I was 4 or 5, just basting things, and really started sewing around 7-8, by time I was 10, I was making mostly slacks and some shirts. and went on from there, creating my own mertails, out of fabric in the late 70's and horse/rider costumes in the '90's on. And now back to making my suits/tails again! :)... If I can help, I'd be happy to.

There aren't many fabric stores around. I had to really look for the the other 3 I know of in my area, and one is almost all upholstery fabrics, but has some for us old time sewers. There are many fabric stores in New York City, and may be other major cities have them, too. But NYC has the huge garment district, which supplies fabrics to clothing designers, and has their designs made. The arts are big business too, (dance, stage, also movies and TV) so they have a huge volume of quite a variety of fabric places. NYC is only about 5 hours from me, but I am a scardy cat to go there and not know where I am going.... need a local or a friend that knows the district. Many Mers here get their spandex from several places there, my fav is SpandexHouse.com... they will even send you swatches! The ppl at Spandex House are wonderful. I have been ordering from them for a long time maybe 20 years-ish, and I've always been treated well.

I'll have to look thru my bookmarks and other resources to see if there are any that have fabric "care & keeping". Will post back when I find something!
(((HUGz))) and Bubble https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/e/B0C'z
Mermaid Marla