Arella
07-02-2014, 04:06 PM
So I am thinking about making a full silicone tail next summer,starting to make molds this summer. I’veread all the threads about it and this is my understanding of the process sofar. If you have any tips or see anyflaw in my plan please let me know : )
Has anyone triedadding a zipper in a full silicone tail? I currently have a silicone neoprene tail and a zipper would be great init! Or if you have a full silicone taildo you think a zipper would be a nice touch or are the full silicone tailseasier to get into?
Questions so far:
-What type of softnessfor sulfur free clay? I found adistributor by my house but they have a few different hardness levels for thesulfur free clay.
-How do you keep clayyou are currently working with from drying out? Like when you’re sculpting the fluke and scale sheet?
-How much shell shockif doing a fluke and scale sheet?
-Should I usefiberglass cloth strips for the scale sheet for reinforcement the same way Iwould with the fluke?
-Should I use the fastor slow cure shell shock?
-Has anyone putdrainage tubes into the fluke? How wouldyou go about doing this?
Step 1. Pattern andBody Mold
A. Pattern, do the basic measure around your legsevery 2 inches and divide by 2 trace on paper. That’s basically it I think.
B. Wrap legs in cling wrap and wrap duct tapearound legs wrapped in cling wrap. Wraparound each ankle too so you know where your feet will be. Cut duct tape off and take mold in 1 inches. Tape shut and stuff with towels, packingpeanuts, etc.
Step 2. Scale Sheet Mold
A. Get poster board big enough for the scale sheetand sculpt the awesome-sauce scale I have in mind out of sulfur free clay. Lay them out how I want them and then build aclay wall around the model.
B. Take shell shock and brush 2-3 layers on, waitingfor each layer to dry in-between coats. DON’T USE THE SHELL SHOCK IN THEHUMIDITY.
Step 3. Fluke Mold
A. Use sulfur free clay to sculpt the fluke onparchment paper then transfer the sculpt to poster board. Use the shell shock to paint on 2-3 coatsletting it dry in-between each layer. Lay strips of fiber glass cloth into the 3rd coat of shellshock then coat again 1-3 more times to end up with a mold 1 cm -3/8” thick.
Step 4. SiliconeScale Sheet
A. Combine equal parts A and B of Dragon Skin 10,use white powder pigment to pigment the silicone white in part B and brush intothe scale mold. Let dry and brushagain. Pour silicone if you need to anduse brush to loosen air bubbles in the silicone. Put power-mesh on the silicone scales.
Step 5. SiliconeFluke
A. Paint silicone (same parts and pigmentation asin scale sheet) into the finer parts of the fluke mold. Pour from the center to fill up mold and layruler or straws into fluke for drainage holes. Use brush to loosen air bubbles in fluke.
B. Do it again for the 2nd half offluke.
Step 6. Painting
A. Mix siliconeB with pigments and add part A and paint the scales and fluke pretty <3
B. Add silicone mixed with glitter if desired.
Step 7. Sealing Fluketo Mono-fin
A. Drill holes through mono fin and use silicone toseal the fluke halves around the mono-fin and through it via the holes.
Step 8. Seams
A. Cut the scales to fit the pattern and lay on theduct tape mold to make sure it fits right. Use silicone and pins to pin the 2 layers of scales together and paintthe silicone onto the layers to sort of glue them together. “Glue” the scales at the bottom of the scalesheet to the fluke.
B. Re-paint where necessary and add my extra fins.
Step 9. SUPERIMPORTANT
A. MERMAID IT :D
Other things to remember:
- Can havemore B than A but not more A than B
- Pour slow
- Freezesilicone to slow curing (like for pigments or seams)
- Take inknee measurements a few inches
Materials:
- 1 gallonof shell shock
- 10 poundsof clay (more b/c of scales?)
- 2 gallonsof Dragon Skin 10 medium cure time
- PearlexPigments
- FiberGlass Cloth
- PosterBoard
- PowerMesh
- PaintBrushes
- Buckets
- MeasuringCups
Has anyone triedadding a zipper in a full silicone tail? I currently have a silicone neoprene tail and a zipper would be great init! Or if you have a full silicone taildo you think a zipper would be a nice touch or are the full silicone tailseasier to get into?
Questions so far:
-What type of softnessfor sulfur free clay? I found adistributor by my house but they have a few different hardness levels for thesulfur free clay.
-How do you keep clayyou are currently working with from drying out? Like when you’re sculpting the fluke and scale sheet?
-How much shell shockif doing a fluke and scale sheet?
-Should I usefiberglass cloth strips for the scale sheet for reinforcement the same way Iwould with the fluke?
-Should I use the fastor slow cure shell shock?
-Has anyone putdrainage tubes into the fluke? How wouldyou go about doing this?
Step 1. Pattern andBody Mold
A. Pattern, do the basic measure around your legsevery 2 inches and divide by 2 trace on paper. That’s basically it I think.
B. Wrap legs in cling wrap and wrap duct tapearound legs wrapped in cling wrap. Wraparound each ankle too so you know where your feet will be. Cut duct tape off and take mold in 1 inches. Tape shut and stuff with towels, packingpeanuts, etc.
Step 2. Scale Sheet Mold
A. Get poster board big enough for the scale sheetand sculpt the awesome-sauce scale I have in mind out of sulfur free clay. Lay them out how I want them and then build aclay wall around the model.
B. Take shell shock and brush 2-3 layers on, waitingfor each layer to dry in-between coats. DON’T USE THE SHELL SHOCK IN THEHUMIDITY.
Step 3. Fluke Mold
A. Use sulfur free clay to sculpt the fluke onparchment paper then transfer the sculpt to poster board. Use the shell shock to paint on 2-3 coatsletting it dry in-between each layer. Lay strips of fiber glass cloth into the 3rd coat of shellshock then coat again 1-3 more times to end up with a mold 1 cm -3/8” thick.
Step 4. SiliconeScale Sheet
A. Combine equal parts A and B of Dragon Skin 10,use white powder pigment to pigment the silicone white in part B and brush intothe scale mold. Let dry and brushagain. Pour silicone if you need to anduse brush to loosen air bubbles in the silicone. Put power-mesh on the silicone scales.
Step 5. SiliconeFluke
A. Paint silicone (same parts and pigmentation asin scale sheet) into the finer parts of the fluke mold. Pour from the center to fill up mold and layruler or straws into fluke for drainage holes. Use brush to loosen air bubbles in fluke.
B. Do it again for the 2nd half offluke.
Step 6. Painting
A. Mix siliconeB with pigments and add part A and paint the scales and fluke pretty <3
B. Add silicone mixed with glitter if desired.
Step 7. Sealing Fluketo Mono-fin
A. Drill holes through mono fin and use silicone toseal the fluke halves around the mono-fin and through it via the holes.
Step 8. Seams
A. Cut the scales to fit the pattern and lay on theduct tape mold to make sure it fits right. Use silicone and pins to pin the 2 layers of scales together and paintthe silicone onto the layers to sort of glue them together. “Glue” the scales at the bottom of the scalesheet to the fluke.
B. Re-paint where necessary and add my extra fins.
Step 9. SUPERIMPORTANT
A. MERMAID IT :D
Other things to remember:
- Can havemore B than A but not more A than B
- Pour slow
- Freezesilicone to slow curing (like for pigments or seams)
- Take inknee measurements a few inches
Materials:
- 1 gallonof shell shock
- 10 poundsof clay (more b/c of scales?)
- 2 gallonsof Dragon Skin 10 medium cure time
- PearlexPigments
- FiberGlass Cloth
- PosterBoard
- PowerMesh
- PaintBrushes
- Buckets
- MeasuringCups