pattern ease when sewing neoprene?

[lucyish]

I searched the threads, but didn't see this addressed, so hopefully I'm not asking a repeat question:

how much ease, or extra space, do people use with neoprene tails?

For example, if I have 42 inch hips and sew a tail that is 43 inches around at my hips, that would be 1 inch of ease. If I sewed it to be 40 inches at my hips, that would be two inches of negative ease.

I'm guessing this is a bit of a trial and error thing, and I will be making a duct tape dress form of my legs to fit it with, but because handsewing through neoprene is a time-consuming process and I'm trying to conserve materials (working from a second-hand wetsuit), I'm trying to get a sense of where I should start my experiments.

If you've made a neoprene tail, is it larger, the same size, or smaller than your measurements?

Thanks!

[Slee]

I haven't made one yet, so will be following this for feedback, as the threads I've read have seemed somewhat contradictory. I've seen recommendations to cut it just a touch larger than your traced pattern ala a spandex tail (so, seam allowance, right?, not ease?) and otherwise they've talked about the stretch of the neoprene and I've been confused. Since it's not a commodity easy to come by in my area, I'm reluctant to experiment.

[Slee]

(pity I don't see anyone just selling neoprene tail blanks)

[Kishiko]

Actually there a few people who do sell tail blanks! Just ask around a bit (:

[Raayvhen]

Morticia Mermaid does! Her Facebook is Siren's Calling

[Slee]

thanks guys! though learning to do things is also important, which brings us back to the question at hand.

[Kishiko]

I would say make in about half an inch bigger on both sides and try it. If you find it is too loose, take it in. leave about 1-1 1/2" of seam allowance so you can take it out/in as necessary! (:

[Slee]

sounds like a good plan.

[Morticia Mermaid]

So, I'm going to jump in here and give you guys a hand :)

When sewing neoprene, cut it out exactly to your measurements (DO NOT just do a trace of your legs, it will be too tight. Specially if you are recycling a wetsuit). It is FAR easier to take a tail in than it is to let it out once it's been cut, given the stretch of neoprene you can easily cut it out to your measurements and be fine. I recommend starting with a half inch seam, and then after you try it on you can take it in as needed.

Working with neoprene isn't easy and takes a lot of practice. I know, the sewing and fit on my first few tails weren't the greatest. So I gladly took them back and resized them. I've also done custom fittings as well (Octavia came to my house so we could get the tail to fit exactly how she wanted it to). It's going to be a lot of hard work, specially if you are hand sewing. Don't get impatient and try to do it faster. Maker sure your seam is nice and even, including tightness.

Also, since you are recycling a wetsuit, I would recommend getting some bias tape for the seam (otherwise the thread will just cut right through the rubber since wetsuits have fabric on only one side). Put the bias tape along the bare rubber where you will be stitching to prevent the thread from cutting it.

And yes, I do offer blank neoprene tails. I don't openly advertise them, or post them on facebook, cause not man people order them. I've made many more tails than pictures can be found of because they were just skins so people could paint it themselves :)


TLDR- Cut neoprene to your measurements and take in as needed. Bias tape on bare rubber side of seam to prevent thread cutting the rubber. And yes, I offer blank neoprene tails :)

Hope this helps guys!

[Slee]

Morticia- you = my hero.

[Raayvhen]

Morticia should be everyone's hero.

[Morticia Mermaid]

Lol. Thanks guy, but I'm just helping where I know I can :) I've made close to 2 dozen neoprene tails now, so I'm pretty well experienced in working with it

[lucyish]

Thanks! It definitely helps.

[lucyish]

To answer my own question, I'm ending up with a ton of negative ease in some places, and less in others. My hip measurement is 41 inches, and the hip measurement of my tail, un-stretched, is 34 inches. The measurement around my caves is 23.5 inches. and the calves of the tail, un-stretched, is 22 inches.