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Thread: Scale Mold Question.

  1. #1

    Question Scale Mold Question.


    Thank you everyone in advance. I am very new here and appreciate all the information that is shared! I'm currently making my own Individual scaled tail.
    I have currently sculpted my scales from Plastalina Clay, and I am waiting on my order of Smooth On polyurethane resin to be delivered. My scales are currently on top of a piece of cardboard covered in saran wrap / kitchen cling wrap. As soon as my Resin is delivered I hope to pour it on top of my Clay Scales and make my scale mold. Before I do this, I have two questions I am currently stuck on, perphaps I've missed the information, but if anyone could help I'd appreciate it.

    1. Should I coat my scales with dish soap or smooth on ease release 200 before pouring my resin on top?

    2. Should I move my scales to a different surface before I pour my resin. I'm stumped, what do y'all normally use as the base surface for your scales to sit on when pouring resin? Tracing paper, saran wrap? I understand the sulfur free clay and clay walls, but maybe I'm over thinking it, but what should i put underneath?

    Thank you!

  2. #2
    When I make molds, I usually spray it with a coat of clear coat spray pain (Krylon Crystal clear, gloss not matte) and let it dry for at least a day. Then I do a coat of Ease Release, using a 1" paint brush all over it to make sure it's in all the nooks and crannies. I spray another thin coat of ER after letting the first one partially dry, and don't use the brush this time. Then goes my mold material. I've actually found that resin is so thin it leaks under the models, so I would recommend using something like Mold Star for a flexible mold or a 50/50 mix of fiberglass and Bondo autobody filler for a rigid mold. You'd need to use a small amount of ER in the Mold Star mold for each casting just because there's a chance the silicone will fuse to it, though that hasn't happened to me yet the few times I've forgotten or missed a spot (fins crossed). You don't need a release agent for the fiberglass/Bondo molds. Smooth-On also has a line of mold-making epoxies called EpoxAmite and EpoxAcoat - you'd brush on the Epoxacoat first, two coats each cured for about an hour. Then a thin layer of EpoxAmite, a layer of fiberglass cloth smushed in while that coat is wet, then a second coat. I haven't personally used this for casting silicone yet but will be doing experiments as soon as I have the funds.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Pod of The South Mermaid_Izzy's Avatar
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    Scale Mold Question.

    Lily gave a lot of good information for release agents, but here is my two cents from my molding experience...

    I use mostly plaster molds, but I did do one mold from fiberglass resin (which I am not a fan of working with). I use Van Aken Plastalina clay to make my sculpts and I have never used a release agent. Where the clay is oil based, Iíve found that it just comes right out of both fiberglass resin and plaster. In fact, when I did my top sculpt, the clay came out of the plaster in one whole piece, detail completely in tact.

    Edit: To answer your second question...

    I pour my molds on card board or poster board. Iíve found making a clay wall around the sculpt seem to work best for large sculpts.

    When I did my individual scales for my last tail build, I got some of the disposable aluminum pans from the dollar store, spaced the sculpted scales inside like cookies, and then poured the mold, so that I would have a standard square without building the clay wall every time.

    Itís also a good idea to keep in mind the materials that you are working with and what could cause an adverse reaction when picking a container of surface for mold making. (Like silicone and latex or resin and certain types of plastic)

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    Last edited by Mermaid_Izzy; 03-08-2020 at 01:36 AM.

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