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Thread: ☆ Tail Care and Maintenance, The Official Thread ☆

  1. #1

    Post ☆ Tail Care and Maintenance, The Official Thread ☆

    TAIL CARE AND MAINTENANCE

    Take care of your tail, and you can prolong it's life to give you years of joyful swimming! Neglect care and it can break down faster than you'd like. Here are some tricks and tips on tail care and maintenance to keep your tail working and looking great for many swims to come!


    General Tips

    •When you put on your mermaid tail, always pull gently as you can from the top and bottom pieces of the tail, not the seams. Seams can break and even tear if pulled roughly over time. This is especially true for fabric and neoprene tails, but not much of a concern for silicone or latex tails.

    •When you are putting on your mermaid tail, always always put it on on a soft/protective surface. A yoga matt is preferable. A large piece of spongy foam (like camping foam) is a good option. A towel will even do! Abrasive surfaces like pool side concrete will damage the tail.

    •The heel area on a mermaid tail is one of the most delicate parts on the entire suit. The second would be the knee area. Therefore you should avoid putting stress on these parts if at all possible. These areas are usually the first to wear and even get damage such as tearing. Do not hop or jump around in you tail, on land or in the water. Try to avoid putting your fluke down and standing on your monofin at all. Instead hover and float in the water- use a floatation device such as a pool noodle if necessary. Avoid “perching” on your knees in or out of water if possible. If you must scoot, be very careful to put as little weight on the heels as possible. Instead of scooting, lift your heels, extend them, set them down, then use your upper body to lift and then set down your buttox (putting as little weight as possible on the heels). When you are swimming, try and keep your tail away from the pool bottom or walls. The abrasive material can snag, scrape, and generally damage your tail.

    •Never use or submerge your neoprene or partial tail (with neoprene/prin lining) in hot water. That means no hot tubs!


    Lubrication

    Some tails can be difficult to get on, especially partial silicone and full silicone tails, as they're meant to fit very snugly. Normally neoprene tails are put on better dry.

    Here are some popular lubrications for putting on tails:
    • water based personal lubricant
    • cheap hair conditioner (such as VO5)
    • Suit Slip
    • coconut oil*
    • hypoallergenic lotion
    • aloe

    *Please be aware that some have found that using coconut oil as a tail lubricant can cause mold to grow the tail.
    If you're using any kind of hair conditioner or lotion, make sure it is eco friendly if you are swimming in the ocean, lakes, or rivers!

    Please note that a silicone based lube on a silicone tail will result in the silicone compounds melting each other- never use a silicone based lubricant on a silicone tail. Just the same, never use a petroleum based lubricant on latex or neoprene! It will damage the latex or neoprene beyond repair.

    Using a lubrication alone is often not enough, but adding a bit of water makes a world of difference! Putting your lube on then misting your skin with plain water from a spray bottle (or vice versa) will help immensely in getting on a tight tail. You could also step in the water up to your waist before applying your lubrication of choice, or mix it in a spray bottle with water and spray that on. Please be aware that if you mix a lubricant with water, it no longer has the amount of preservatives necessary to keep bacteria from multiplying and mold from growing. Thus, it should only be used for a few weeks before it is discarded.

    While some claim all of those options are also safe on full silicone tails, I would recommend you use water-based lubricant. You can buy water based lube at most pharmacies, but they have a wider (and often cheaper) range at adult stores. You can also purchase it online if buying in a store makes you uneasy.

    The cheapest water-based lubricant you can get is J-Lube. It's a powder that you mix with water to create the lubrication- which also means you can control the constancy of whatever you mix, and can do it in small or big batches. One 10oz bottle of J-Lube makes 6-8 GALLONS of lubrication (and it costs as much as a 8oz bottle of adult water based lube). Take care to swatch test on your skin before using. J-Lube was made to be used as an obstetrical lubricant. It should not irritate your skin, but it never hurts to check- manufacturers claim it's "completely inert and non-irritating". Because it has no preservatives, once mixed it only has a shelf life of 1-2 weeks, so keep that in mind when deciding how much to mix at one time.

    For more information on putting on different types of tails, see this thread.


    Cleaning

    Every mermaid tail, no matter what it's made of, should be rinsed with cold/cool fresh water, inside and out, as soon as possible after each use. Avoid warm or hot water for neoprene, as this can do damage to the material. You can rinse your tail with a garden hose, a shower hose, or a tub faucet, etc. After you are finished rinsing your tail hang it up to dry as soon as possible. DON'T WAIT until tomorrow- rinse and dry your tail ASAP!

    Neutralizing chlorine is a very important step in tail and accessory care when you swim in pools. Chlorine is harsh on everything. There is a whole thread dedicated to dealing with chlorine's negative effects. It is recommended that you not only rinse your tail afterwards, but if at all possible take steps to neutralize chlorine as RINSING IS NOT ENOUGH to protect your tail from it's damaging effects. If you do so or not is up to you, just keep this in mind as a factor in the longevity of your tail.

    A cheap and easy way to help with this is to give your tail a baking soda rinse or soak. Chlorine is acidic, so it makes sense that to neutralize this a base such as baking soda would be effective. Some members vouch for this method in increasing longevity of their tails. This method should be used immediately after (within 24 hours) swimming in chlorinated water. For a rinse you can fill a bucket or other container with water and mix in baking soda, then pour it over/in your tail- then rinse with fresh water. For a soak, you can fill a container (many use their tub for tails that are large and can't be folded, for fabric tails a bucket may work fine) with water and stir in baking soda then place your tail in the water making sure to cover as much of it as possible. You may want to use something as a weight to keep the material of the tail fully submerged.

    Some use also place their accessories, swim wear, and other equipment in the bath along with the tail to care for those items as well. How long you leave it is up to you- most do either a few hours or let it soak over night. The ratio of baking soda to water hasn't been established- most just use their best judgment. However baking soda is a very benign substance- I imagine it would be hard to "over do it" to the point of any kind of damage. Just be sure there isn't so much that it doesn't dissolve in the water. Be sure to rinse with fresh water after then dry.

    There are various washes that for different fabrics For fabric and perhaps even neoprene based tails, here are specialty washes to get the chlorine out. Remember to hand wash, not machine wash.

    Solmar Corp Suit Saver

    Speedo Swimsuit Cleaner
    Summer Solutions Suit Solutions
    Swim Spray Chlorine Remover


    Tip: A back brush - such as the ones you use in the tub or shower, soft bristles, long handle for reaching your back and shoulders- is good for gently cleaning a tail. It is great for removing sand, dirt, and any flakey paint.

    Preventing and treating mold in a mermaid tail is very important. Mold can eat away at silicone and weaken it, it can show through your tail as dark unsightly spots, and it can cause skin reactions when you wear it! Here are a few options for how to prevent mold.

    • Vinegar. Rinse the inside of the tail with a half and half mixture of distilled white vinegar and water. This will discourage any mold, mildew, or other bacteria growth inside the tail. This can be useful in partial latex/silicone tails with neoprene linings, as they take longer to completely dry, giving mold more time to set in. According to various sources, this can also help prevent chlorine from deteriorating fabric tails. Be sure to rinse well after using vinegar.
    • Rubbing alcohol. According to the silicone manufacturer and distributor Smooth-On, isopropyl alcohol can be safely used on platinum silicone to kill any existing mold.
    • Disinfecting wipes, such as Lysol wipes. These are also great for cleaning the inside of silicone tails while disinfecting them to kill and prevent mold. Be sure to let it evaporate out of he tail after using. (See Raina's thread on this for more information).
    • Toy cleaner. For platinum silicone or slip casting latex tails, there are cleaners made specifically for this material that will clean and sanitize the latex or silicone safely. It may sound strange, but the best product for this job is actually a adult toy cleaner! Read the labels, make sure that the cleaner is approved for latex and silicone! You can purchase these at an adult store or online.
    • Wet suit dry shampoo. For neoprene, neoprene based, and lycra tails. According to the site, this product "works fast to remove organic residues like algae and bacteria, plus chlorine and salt deposits".



    Drying

    Drying your tail completely is very important! Full silicone tails can be dried inside and out with towels. If you have trouble reaching into and around the foot pockets (in the fluke) with towels, there's a little trick you can use to make it easier: Wrap a dish towel around your hand, and take a large sock and slip your toweled hand into it. You how have a towel that you can maneuver into and around foot pockets, and into small crannies to completely dry out the inside of your tail.

    If you're having trouble getting your tail completely dry, you can put a pool noodle (or two if they're small) inside the tail to prop it open and let air flow in. It helps even more if you have a fan pointing to the inside of the tail. Small clip-on fans (such as this one) can even be clipped on the pool noodles to have the fan directly in the opening (waist) of the tail. You can even leave the fan running over night.

    Depending on what your tail is made of, it may be harder to dry out the inside of the tail. Partial latex and partial silicone tails are notorious for taking a long time to dry. Some mers build or purchase things to aid in drying their tails completely. Just be sure NOT to clamp your tail in any way, as this can lead to damage and/or permanent indentations in the material. One option is to buy a boot dryer, such as the “PEET Dryer Wader Boot Wader Electric Dryer” (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details) - just be sure to be aware of the heat settings. Too much heat is not good for tails made of certain materials. Another is to buy a coat rack, preferably with adjustable or removable arms. You can even place this over a air vent, if you have those in your home. You would hang the tail upside down (fluke up) with either of these. A DIY option would be to build a tail drying rack out of PVC. Several people have done this with great success!


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    PVC tail drying stand made by Merman Jesse (original creator)


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    PVC tail drying stand made for Mermaid Marla (by spouse)

    Others have used J-hooks to hang their tails on the wall, no only to dry out of the way, but also doubles as lovely wall decor!

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    Materials (☜ click for photo) found at stores like Lowes or Home Depot, and cheap! Cost breakdown: Handy hooks $2.94 each, Pipe insulation(found in plumbing section): $2.47, Dry wall tripple grip screws: $6.98

    Never leave your tail out in the sun for long periods of time- not even to dry! UV rays can cause damage to the material, also the heat will damage neoprene tails. Do not store in direct sunlight! Don't leave your tail in a hot car or trunk, or other hot area such as a storage shed. Never store your tail where it is under constant stress (like on a hanger, where the monofin weight will put stress on the folded area). Best thing is to store it flat, on a no stress tail stand, or the wall. Remember that latex and silicone can be sticky. Once a latex tail is completely dry, you can dust it with baby powder or corn starch to keep it from sticking to itself if this is an issue. This can be helpful for storage over long periods of time or when you need to transport it in the heat. Remember that sun and heat are damaging to materials such as latex, neoprene, and lycra.


    Tail Repair

    •Water is hard on zippers. If your tail has a zipper, take care of it, or you may need to remove/replace it sooner than you'd like! A wet use zipper care formula such as “Zip Care Liquid Zipper Cleaner and Lubricant” (http://www.mcnett.com/Zip-Care-Liqui...cant-P249.aspx) is recommended. If you've broken a zipper, they can be replaced. Check out this video tutorial on how to replace a broken zipper in a FinFolk Mythic tail: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rO9hIUfEojQ

    •Tails made from lycra, neoprene, tin cure latex, and slip casting latex will degrade over time. Another thing you can do to help slow that process is to use a spray protectant. It will need to be reapplied every so often to maintain protection. We recommend McNett Silicone Spray Lubricant Protectant (http://www.mcnett.com/Silicone-Spray...tant-P255.aspx) (Do not use hardware store silicone sprays, as they may be blended with petroleum. Buy online, or from your local dive shop.) This is especially important for tin cure latex to keep it from deteriorating. DO NOT use on silicone! A silicone based lube or spray on silicone will result in the silicone compounds melting each other. Just the same, NEVER use a petroleum based product on latex or neoprene! It will damage the latex or neoprene beyond repair.

    •Any fabric based tails will lose elasticity over time and stretch out. Neoprin is probably the worst offender with this issue. You can take them in yourself as needed, or you can take them to a seamstress and have them do it for you. Just be sure to inform them of the type of materials so they know how to handle it properly. Check out some tips on the "Sewing lycra and other swim fabrics" thread and the "Sewing Neoprene" thread.

    •For painted tin cure latex tails, you can repaint and touch up the paint with Createx brand airbrush paint. This can be found at craft stores nation wide. You do not need to have an airbrush to paint the tail, you may brush it on with a paint brush. Let the paint dry for at least one hour, making sure all paint is completely dry, before curing the paint. You may have to recoat the paint in layers to get a nice uniform coat. If so, be sure to let it dry between layers. It is better to wait and do it correctly. Heat set with a very hot heat gun to cure the paint. A tool grade or craft grade heat gun is recommended. A hair dryer will not work. Be careful when using the heat gun. Keep it moving- if a spot gets too hot the paint will bubble and will become prone to peeling and flaking off, and it is possible to melt or burn a hole in the tail if one area is heated for too long. Paint will eventually come off over time, and with scrapes on abrasive surfaces such as concrete, rocks, and pool walls.

    •Rips and tears can happen. For patching rips/tears in neoprene, there are the following: Seal Cement Contact Cement for Neoprene (http://www.mcnett.com/Seal-Cement-Co...rene-P388.aspx) and Aquaseal Urethane Repair Adhesive and Sealant (http://www.mcnett.com/Aquaseal-Ureth...lant-P234.aspx).

    For patching full silicone tails or repairing fins on full silicone tails, please contact your tailmaker first, as attempting to repair it yourself can further damage your tail and/or void your warranty. If it's a self made tail (you have no tailmaker to contact) then you can attempt to patch it yourself with silpoxy, sugru, or tin cure silicone that will bond to platinum silicone (such as GE Silicone I Clear Waterproof Silicone) on the inside of the tail. Sil-Poxy, made by Smooth On, is said to be a great alternative for thickened dragonskin. Sugru is also an easy way to patch small holes (used by the Dive Bar mermaids) as it is platinum grade silicone in a putty form.

    For holes and minor tears, patch neatly on the inside of the tail. You can use nylon power mesh (sold by the yard) to reinforce trouble areas and/or larger holes. Power mesh can be ordered online, or even found in some fabric stores with the spandex/swim fabrics. Simply put down a layer of silicone repairing medium of your choice, a followed by a small patch of power mesh (enough to cover the area and a little extra) and then more silicone.
    If you are repairing transparent blended waists, get power mesh colored closest to the kind it was made with and/or to your skin color.

    For damage to fins on the outside, you can use silpoxy or GE I Caulking (they have similar components, but silpoxy has an accelerant, thus the 12 minute cure time). If your tail is past the "green period" (by the time you get your tail it probably is past it already) regular platinum silicone may not bond to the old silicone, and may peel off easily after repair. Thus it is recommended that you use silpoxy or GE I caulking.
    To match the paint on your tail for repairs, you can mix in powder pigments, or in a pinch, eyeshadow. Be sure to clean the area thoroughly first to ensure a good bond! It's recommended you use Original Blue Dawn dish soap to wash the area well. Let the area completely dry, and clean it with rubbing alcohol (90% recommended) and let that dry completely as well. If needed you can use sewing pins to hold the damaged fin in place while the silicone dries- don't worry, they won't harm the silicone.

    Be sure to wear protective gear (nitrile gloves, ect- of course never wear latex gloves to handle silicone as it will inhibit curing) as always. Popsicle sticks are handy for small applications like that. Be sure to let it cure completely before using again. (Check the instructions for how long complete cure will take. Typically 12-24 hours is best.)

    Check out this video made by Raven of Merbella Studios on repairing fin rips:




    Transport

    Transport your tail with care. For heavier tails you can carry it a short distance with it over your shoulder or over your forearm. It can help to put a towel over your shoulder or arm first, to avoid chaffing from sticky materials such as latex and silicone. For longer trips you may want to invest in a large bag. Some mers have used extra large art portfolio bags, some have used pop-up tent bags, some IKEA shopping bags, some extra large tote bags.

    There are several monofin carrying bags that fit tails, and and bags specifically for carrying mermaid tails on the market. Please be aware that any bag with the fluke pointing downwards should be avoided! A few mermaids have had the monofin in their tails crack or completely snap from using such bags, as the design puts too much stress on the monofin!

    Flying with a tail can be done of course, but there are a few things to know. The best route is to check your tail as checked baggage. Most tails with floppy flukes can be packed in a large suitcase. If your fluke/monofin is large and stiff, you will most likely need to pack it in a large box (many use the box that they received their tails in originally). Some invest in a bike case for flying with their tails, but those are very expensive. Depending on the size of the box or case, this may mean that your tail would be considered "oversized luggage" which comes with an extra (often expensive) fee. Either way, it's recommended that you mark your luggage or box to be "fragile". Please be aware, that just like any other piece of luggage, there is a chance that your tail could be lost. This has happened to several mermaids. There is a limit on how much an airline will reimburse you for lost or damaged items (if at all)- and that may not cover the cost of your tail.

    Some people have claimed that they can carry their tails on board the plane with them. If your can fit your tail in a bag that follows the the restrictions for overhead bins, or under your seat, then by all means do so. But most silicone tails will not fit in those spaces. Also, be aware that flights often have limited overhead bin space, and if you do not board early enough, there may be no room for your tail, and you may have to check it at the gate.

    Some mers have stated that they were able to store their tails in the "first class closet" or "garment closet" on airplanes by asking the flight crew. Never depend on this. That space is actually not a "first class/garmet closet", it is a wheelchair closet. It is a wheelchair closet first and foremost. After that, it can be used as a space for crew to keep their bags, or perhaps be used as a place for others to keep garments. That is a big gamble to depend on for safe transport of a tail.

    Another option would be to ship your tail to your destination ahead of you. Depending on your tail, and the distance to the destination, this may be more or less expensive than taking it as checked luggage. ALWAYS insure your tail when shipping. As with any package, there is a chance that it could be lost or damaged when in route. Shipping ahead is not a good option for when you are traveling internationally, however- as it could be held in customs for a long time, and you could also be charged high customs fees.

    When moving long distances, take special care in how you pack your tail. This is especially true for silicone tails, and also for partial tails that may develop permanent creases if left folded for too long. You can pack it via any of the above methods. However, your things will be in transit and/or storage for more than a week, I highly advise seeing if there is a way to have it sent flat if possible. For example, when I moved cross country a moving company packed our things- I had them lay down a blanket on our couch, put the tail on the blanket, then fold the blanket over. They then wrapped the entire couch in heavy duty plastic wrap (as they do for all couches). That way it was secure, padded, and flat for the whole of a month it took me to see it again.
    If a moving company is packing your things (such as is required for military moves) always supervise the packing of your tail. Although If a monofin is put into a box and bent to fit in there, it may become permanently bent. Make sure your monofin(s) are put in a large enough box that they do not bend. Make sure no heavy objects are placed on top of your monofin(s).
    If you are moving a shorter distance, it may be best to take your tail in the car with you, rather than have it loaded in the back of a truck. I also advise that only you and people you trust with your tail handle it. Tell others not to touch it. Friends or others helping you move may not know how to handle your tail, and may damage it on accident when trying to help. (I had that happen actually- one of my heel fins got ripped off.)

    Avoid putting anything on top of your tail if at all possible, especially laying it flat and setting something moderately heavy on top, and especially in the heat. This can warp the monofin pockets beyond repair, making it painful to even excruciating for your feet to swim in. The monofin may have to be taken out of the tail (deconstruction of the fluke) and repaired or replaced if this occurs. Tails should NEVER be shipped in a flattened box for this reason.

    No matter how I transport my tail- in the back of a car, in a tail bag, in a box- I always put down a barrier to prevent the tail from catching on itself. This is particularly important if you have a silicone tail with extra fins. I lay down the fluke, and put down the edge of the towel, then lay down a section of the tail, then fold the towel over so it is on top of that section, then put down the last section of the tail. The towel-tail sandwich will prevent fins from catching or potentially ripping when it is jostled about.
    Last edited by Winged Mermaid; 03-02-2018 at 06:32 AM. Reason: added information, reformatting

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  2. #2
    Senior Member Undisclosed Pod
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    kinda funny but totally legit, sex toy cleaner is great for silicone tails. It kills bacteria, only needs to be left on for seconds, and is safe for use on silicone without destroying it. I got one that came in a spray bottle, and just looks like window cleaner!

  3. #3
    I've always really "babied" my tail, never taking it out of the house so far or getting more than drops of water on it, so I haven't had to clean it so far, it still looks pretty brand-new
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  4. #4
    Senior Member Undisclosed Pod Morticia Mermaid's Avatar
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    I'll definitely keep this in mind when it comes to taking care of my tails. I'm going to use the heck out of them
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  5. #5
    What about a sequin tail? Is there anything important to know about cleaning/storage? I haven't seen it talked about really.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Ayla of Duluth View Post
    What about a sequin tail? Is there anything important to know about cleaning/storage? I haven't seen it talked about really.
    That's becuase it's a pretty recent type of tail! If it were me I'd start with following instructions for taking care of the material it's based on- so lycra, neoprene, or neoprin. It would be my guess that chlorine will accelerate the weakening of the colored backing on the sequins, which leads to separation of the backing from the sequins. This will happen anyhow because of submersion, but I think chlorine will certainly make it happen faster. Therefore you should take extra care in rinsing thoroughly after use. I think using proper fabric wash (or even the vinegar and water rinse) would also be important if the sequins are sewn, since there are so many holes in the material it can break down the fabric faster by making it vulnerable, letting water and chemicals through and into the fabric. Especially neoprene. Drying it well would also be important before storing, which may take longer since air needs to get under the sequins to get them dry and they're crowded together.

    The nature of a sequin tail is that the sequins are constantly being damaged. Coming off, chipping, cracking, colored backing chipping, separating from the sequin, coming off, ect. A big part of maintenance on those tails will be replacing sequins on a regular basis.

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  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by AniaR View Post
    kinda funny but totally legit, sex toy cleaner is great for silicone tails. It kills bacteria, only needs to be left on for seconds, and is safe for use on silicone without destroying it. I got one that came in a spray bottle, and just looks like window cleaner!
    xD I love it whenever you tell people about the sex toy cleaner.
    It makes me laugh to think that someone would go to a sex store and get the largest bottle
    (for a whole tail of course :'P) and then the guy at the cash register would be all O_O "How
    many sex toys do you HAVE!?" xD
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  8. #8

  9. #9
    The sequins DO get damaged. If you go to this thread and click on the pictures and then when you get to the photobucket page, click on the image again, and it will show you the image much larger. Then you can see that there are all kinds of sequins that are coming off, backings coming off and separated/separating, chipped sequins, ect. Especially on the bottom and back of her flukes. She keeps them looking good by doing it the hard way, which is replacing and repairing sequins as they get damaged.

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  10. #10
    Oh I see. It kinda reminds me of the way fish scales come off in your hands. Wasn't there someone who put silicone over her sequins? I think that's a genius ides for sequin tails, especially since replacing individual sequins as they get damaged can be exhausting and expensive.

  11. #11
    Last I heard they did a patch test and it didn't hold up :/ I thought as much, becuase the sequins would be constantly cutting into the silicone and weakening it. The only thing I can think of is dipping the sequins in clear casting resin before you attach them. But that would get expensive, very time consuming (especially becuase unless you figure out another way to keep the hole for sewing open you'd have to re-drill a hole with a dremmel/very small drill bit) and it could also get really heavy with a lot of sequins on the tail. I guess you could hand brush resin on lightly the fronts and backs with a brush (though it would have to be a disposable one every time you did it becuase that stuff doesn't come out and hardens as it cures). That would leave the area around the sewing hole vulnerable to breaking, but protect the rest of the sequin. So they would break off here and there, but you wouldn't have any of the other damage issues. It'd take a lot of time, but may be worth it.

    As I always say- always do a patch test FIRST.

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  12. #12
    Just wanted to post the cheapest I've found Seal Cement is on eBay here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251144895390?hlp=false It's half the price it's usually listed, with free shipping and 100% positive feedback. I ordered from them last night!

    Also the cheapest I found Createx is at Chicago Airbrush Supply: http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/createx.html They have a fantastic range of the colors- all of them I think- In sizes in ounces in 2, 8, 16, 32, and 128.

  13. #13
    Thank you soooo much for posting this! I'm just about to purchase my first silicone tail, and I was wondering about the maintenance. This helped a ton!
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  14. #14
    This is fantastic.

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  15. #15
    Senior Member Pod of Cali Ashe's Avatar
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    Wow! I just came across all this :P This is such helpful information, so thank you big time! I learned so many things
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  16. #16
    Please be advised that I am not the original creator of the tail drying stand, Mertender Steve is the original creator. I designed the one specifically for my MVD tail.

    I also modified Steve's design so that it acts as a rinse station by attaching a garden hose to it.

  17. #17
    Senior Member Pod of Oceania Mer-Crazy's Avatar
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    What temperature would you consider to be 'warm' or 'hot'? I just want to know because a) opinions of water temperatures vary depending on person to person and b)waters actually tend to get fairly warm around where I live and I don't want to damage my tail.

  18. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Mer-Crazy View Post
    What temperature would you consider to be 'warm' or 'hot'? I just want to know because a) opinions of water temperatures vary depending on person to person and b)waters actually tend to get fairly warm around where I live and I don't want to damage my tail.
    It's hard to say when damage will start to occur. As far as I know neoprene is the most vulnerable to heat, but maybe becuase there's more care information on it because of how many people use it (surfers, divers, snorkelers, ect). I'd say anything warmer than luke warm to moderately warm should be avoided. I noted this because I know for wetsuit care they tell you after you get out of the ocean do NOT take a warm or hot shower while in your suit still because it can cause damage, even though you may be very temped. Hope that helps I'm sure if you do some digging on wetsuit companies care sheets and warranty info, or maybe a dive enthusiast forum, you could find more info.

    Wingéd Mermaid Iona

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  19. #19
    Just bumping this to say I updated it a bit

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  20. #20
    Senior Member Euro Pod
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    For the baking soda thing.... My mom thinks it's not a good idea becouse it's salt and she's worried it would EAT and damage the tail. Any advice? Also; Is wetsuit cleaner good enough for getting bacteria out of a neoprene/silicone tail?



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