Jazz's H2o Style Silicone Mermaid Tail Process

[ShyMer]

It's more for the mold itself that I would want to fill any loose bits in, because you don't want any undercuts. It would end up being a piece that would stick up off the mold and maybe have to be snapped off. I might also expect to see it snap off while you're pulling your first cast from the mold, depending on how fragile it is, and potentially make casting a little harder. Of course that may not happen at all. It's just something I know from making molds.

[Mermaid Caspiana]

Can you please explain the whole process thoroughly about making a whole mold casting thing to be able to pour the silicone in the mold. Thanks!

[jazz2453]

Yea @shymer I'm fully aware of undercuts based on different tests an stuff that I read, and I rearranged my scales a bit and I filled in the little gaps with tiny balls of clay.

[ShyMer]

Oh, that oil based clay, right? That might work nicely. I'm just trying to make sure you understand what I mean, by the way. Sorry if I pester too much

I'm impressed with the amount of research you've done for this project. Have you done anything like this before?

[jazz2453]

No I fully support it, and I hope you can continue to give me as many tips as possible along the way. I've never done anything like this. I've read many of these forums and that's basically it. I've also asked many questions to Smooth-on, Monster Makers, and other SPFX sites.

[jazz2453]

@Mermaid Nerin
Making a mold of your fluke-(This is what I did) Honestly when it comes to making molds it's different for everyone depending on what material you use. In this case, I made a sculpt out of Monster Maker's clay. The hardest part was smoothing out the clay. I bought some clay tools (which you can find at any art store) and I used a paint scraper razor. I melted the clay with a blowdryer then lightly used the razor and tools to level and smooth the clay. Once that was done I added the detail. Once your satisfied with your sculpt, you make a mold wall. More clay is the best option, but I ran out of clay so a cardboard box was fine. You will need vinyl gloves for this process (*DO NOT GET SHELL SHOCK ON YOUR SKIN, IT WILL BURN.) I applied Vaseline (You don't need it, but it's a nice if you want an easy release) all over the clay and around the side of the clay (so the edges would release). I then sprayed Mann's Ease Release 200. I waited 30 minutes for it to dry, the applied my first layer of Shell Shock. The mix ratio is 1a:4b by volume, so I applied 1/2 cup of part A (Shell shock has 2 parts) and 2 cups of part B. Shell shock has an 8 minute pot life, if you get slow, so you need to work FAST! Mix the parts together for 30 seconds or until one solid color. Pour it on and use a paintbrush to paint the detail. Apply all over your surface. Let that dry for about 30 minutes. Begin mixing another batch. This time I used 1/4 cup A and 1 cup B. Same process of applying. Let it dry for 30 minutes. Apply another layer of your desired amount. And continue this process until your mold is thick enough. I applied about 5 layers. *WAIT for it to dry for 5 hours until you demold. For the the edges on the cardboard, I used a putty knife to scrape underneath so they wouldn't stick to the cardboard. I waited 2 hours until I did this. DO NOT release anymore of the Shell Shock until it's fully cured.
Why not to lift it too early-This is where I got stupid…-_- I become too anxious, and lifted a small piece of the Shell Shock about 2 hours and 30 minutes into drying. The corner piece of the fluke snapped off the the rest of the mold. My heart stopped, and I thought it was over. Once it was 5 hours, I flipped the fluke over and peeled the clay out CAREFULLY. It easily came out and I was just left with tiny pieces of clay stuck to the detail. I rearranged the broken pieces into there place and glued them together. I then filled in the crack with clay. It now looks fine and you can't tell that it cracked because the clay is leveled with the mold, but it was just a scary experience. If I told have any peculiar marks I'm pretty sure they will be so faint that the paint with easily cover them. Anyways so once it's fully cured it's simple to release it. You can carefully use your finger to release the edges and then lift, or flip the mold over and peel the clay out. Anyway is fine, it's pretty easy. You can then scrub with a tooth brush and let it sit in hot water, or use a blowdryer and a q-tip/ dental pick/ tooth pick/ other and just try to get out as much clay as possible. And YAY! You have a fluke mold that is ready for silicone casting.


I haven't molded my scales yet but I write a detailed process/tutorial once I'm finished. I'm pretty sure you know that it starts out by making a model with any material (clay, seeds, craft foam) and then applying your material over them.
There are many different ways with different materials but this is one option.

[Jadestone]

The soccer ball circles look awesome!! Are they adhesive on one side? Super convenient

[jazz2453]

Thanks Jadestone! And yes they are adhesives.

[Jadestone]

I'm really looking forward to seeing how this turns out!! You're doing awesome so far.

[jazz2453]

Thanks Jadestone
Daily Update- Paints are in! Woot! My silicone should be here friday, so I will test them out. I'm trying Jacquard's Pearl Ex Powder Pigments. They are really beautiful and vibrant. Here's a picture. I may order another green because I'm not the biggest fan of that doody color.

[ShyMer]

Did you try mixing the pigments together to see what effects you could get? You might be able to mix that one green to make a nice olive under color, for example.

Also I guess you could experiment with different concentrations of pigment in the silicone, right? It should be interesting to know how much pigment you could put in before it weakened the material.

From your tests it looks like it make for some interesting effects!

[jazz2453]

Yea definitely! I'll have to test it out

[Mermaid Oshun]

are you making the scale sheet long enough to go from your waist to about an inch below the tip of your toe?

[jazz2453]

Yes its a few inches longer then the length of my belly button to my toes (when I'm on my tippy toes).

[AniaR]

Kudos to you for actually asking smoothon! not enough people do that.

This is getting so exciting.

Also, I sent you a PM whenever you get a chance

[Mermaid Isabela]

This looks amazing!!! I can't wait to see the result! Super excited for you! Are you thinking of opening a mermaid page on facebook?

[ShyMer]

Yes its a few inches longer then the length of my belly button to my toes (when I'm on my tippy toes).

Awesome, that was another question I had.

Do you have any thoughts on how you want to do your seams? I also was going to suggest that you not cast the whole scale sheet, but just for your measurements, that way you won't have a whole bunch of wasted scales ( and expensive silicone) that you cut off. When I cast my latex, I did the whole sheet, and ended up with a lot wasted when I got off the excess. Does that make sense? I can draw you an image if you like.

[jazz2453]

No I understand. I may consider that. It's just that I was planning on making a mold of the whole box. Not just the sheet.

[MermaidHyli]

Wow...this is all so amazing!! For one mer to another im proud of you for sticking through it! Curiousity as to the pigments you chose. Like why not go with siglc pig or ignite? What is it about jacquard that made you chise the powder over the gels?

[jazz2453]

It was suggested to me by Mermaid Jessica, and the colors were really beautiful Also I've read that powder pigments work better for silicone. Silicone pigments are fine too, they are just more expensive.